The View from Here: Cruising Croatia's Adriatic Coast & a Visit to Vis
Join me as I explore Croatia’s hidden gems, cycling in Vis, embracing the magic of life on the water, and pondering a safer world for women.
Hola, intrepid travelers! I just wanted to pop in and give you a quick update from Croatia. After a whirlwind few days of exploring, I’ve finally found a spot with a good Wi-Fi connection and excellent coffee to catch my breath.
So far, Croatia has been everything I hoped for: full of charm, surprises, and a few delightful challenges that come with any good adventure. Whether pondering the thousands of years of history we’re walking in, splashing around in the (surprisingly buoyant) Adriatic Sea or just soaking in the local vibe, I’m feeling fully immersed in the magic of this place.
Here’s a quick update, and stay with me until the end – it’s not all fun and games, and we have some real shit to talk.
I’m traveling for the second time with One Week Each Year, the first being my trip to Venice about 18 months ago. And as with that adventure, I can’t imagine any better way to experience this part of the world than with a small-ish (30 or so) group of badass women.
After starting with a week on my own with a friend in Split, we were off as a group to Vis.
Wow, this island is something special. Even though I’d heard about its history—like how it was a forbidden naval base during the communist era—actually seeing the remnants of that past was surreal. Hidden tunnels dot the landscape, like secret passages waiting to be explored.
But Vis isn’t just about military history—it’s a slice of Mediterranean paradise. The local wine, Vugava, absolutely lived up to the hype (I mean, if a Greek historian says it’s the best, you can’t skip it, right?).
While most of the group went on a historic tour, I stayed behind to wander. (Ship life is very people-y, and I needed some alone time… what can I say?)
It was overcast and a bit chilly during our visit. Sunbathing was out of the question, but it was the perfect bike-riding weather.
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Now, I’ve never considered myself much of a cyclist, so discovering pedal-assist e-bikes was a game-changer for me. They seem far more common in Europe than North America, and sure enough, as I stepped off the boat in Vis with no idea what to do, there was a bike rental place right there at the port.
40 Euros later, I was equipped with an e-bike and helmet for 3 hours.
Vis is a coastal town in a valley, with switchbacks leading up into the surrounding hills. I would never attempt this on my own steam, but the pedal-assist made quick work of the incline. Soon, I was high above the town, marvelling at the view.
I found cycling here much friendlier and less hair-raising than in Italy, where cars rode our asses and screamed by inches from our tires. Here in Vis, vehicles gave me a wide berth and were few and far between anyway. If you’re an inexperienced cyclist like me but still love the thrill, a small town like Vis is a great place to fulfill that need for adventure without putting your life in danger.
The ride wasn’t without challenges… I lost the bike chain at one point and had to figure it out on the side of the road. It was either that or walk it back to the shop, and that wasn’t going to happen.
And so, happy, filthy, and feeling accomplished, I was eventually back on the road.
Thankfully, the housekeeper on our yacht had a scrub brush for my hands, and I’ll worry about getting the stains out of my sweater later. For now, I’m just grateful for this respite from the inflammatory arthritis gremlin that plagues my body, and intent on making the most of this time.
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I’ve always loved being on the water, but this trip has given me a whole new appreciation for it. It’s my first time sleeping in a below-deck berth, and I imagine it’s like being back in the womb.
The boat's gentle rocking lulls me to sleep each night, wrapping me up in a cozy cocoon of calm. It’s such a peaceful, almost primal feeling, drifting off as the waves cradle you. I could get used to this!
Here are a few more shots from Vis, with lessons learned below:
I forget when outside of Canada that not everyone cooks hamburgers to death like we do. Though the Bacon Cheeseburger I ordered for dinner looked delicious, I could do little more than nibble around the crispy edges. Rare ground beef just isn’t my thing.
It’s a good thing we can get our calories in french fries and local beer.
I’m loving the Adriatic Sea. On top of its buoyancy, it smells fresher and cleaner than the Atlantic or Pacific. I’m not always a fan of saltwater, but am taking every possible opportunity here to get on or into it.
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