Split, Croatia: Midlife Nomad's Guide to Hidden Gems & Historic Charm in Dalmatia
Tips, tricks and recommendations for making the most of your time in Croatia's second-largest city, home of Diocletian's Palace and Game of Thrones memorabilia galore
Some friends and readers of mine despise my use of the terms “midlife” and “middle-aged.” 😆 Sorry, not sorry, because listen, we travel a little differently, and there has to be a category for that.
I won’t impose the “midlife” label on you, but I wear it as a badge of honour. It’s a small miracle that I got this far in one piece and continue waking up on the right side of the dirt each morning – sometimes in beautiful places, like Split, Croatia.
Plenty of “complete guides to Split” are already available online, so you don’t need me to write another one.
My shared experiences and stories are for the 30s- to 60-somethings.
We’re not into low-budget backpacking or staying in hostel dorms (singles with ensuite baths are a different story). But we’re not retired, either – many of us are still working, either hybrid or fully remote.
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Few of us are independently wealthy. We’re not likely traveling the world on a luxury budget. (Kudos to you if you are! Colour me jealous 😉)
Some of us have mobility issues and have to consider things like how a bed leaves our back the next morning, whether we have access to an ergonomic workspace, or how we’ll manage on cobblestone streets. We may have children, but many do not. By midlife, they’re probably not traveling with us, either way – at least, not as dependents.
What you’ll find below are my recommendations, tips, and need-to-know info from my perspective as an unapologetically midlife nomad.
Disclosure: Midlife Nomads often refers and links to websites, apps, and products/services I actually use. Sometimes, I receive compensation if readers sign up or make a purchase. A girl’s gotta eat – and travel!
Split has me hooked.
There’s something about that first glimpse of a city as you roll your luggage across cobblestone streets that makes you feel like you've truly arrived. It’s quintessentially European, in the best possible way. You know those postcard-perfect streets lined with ancient stone buildings, the kind that look like they’ve been frozen in time for centuries? That’s Split.
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As a Canadian, I find the historical scope here mind-blowing. Back home, if something is 200 years old, we slap a plaque on it and call it a heritage site. In Split, you’ve got buildings that have stood for over a thousand years!
One of the most famous examples is Diocletian’s Palace, which dates back to Roman times. I mean, how often do we get to say that where we’re from? The palace isn’t just a monument either; it’s the beating heart of the old town.
Cafés, shops, apartments, and restaurants are all woven into the original Roman walls, arches, and narrow passageways. It’s like stepping into a living museum, where the locals and tourists alike are strolling through history.
Scenes from Split, September 2024. Miranda Miller
It’s easy to lose yourself wandering through the maze of narrow streets, each one somehow more charming than the last. You’ll find quaint back-alley coffee shops where locals sip espresso as if they’ve got all the time in the world.
And let’s not forget the pub culture – though “pub” might be too casual a word for some of the stunning wine bars tucked into hidden corners.
If you enjoy people-watching, the outdoor seating in these spots is prime real estate. Just park yourself with a glass of local wine (Dalmatia is known for some incredible vintages) and watch the world go by.
My Personal Highlights
Dinner and a classic outdoor movie (no audio) on the rooftop at Articok ($$$)
Grab a fresh-baked croissant and bottled cold-pressed fruit juice from Studenac Market and walk the waterfront ($)
Museum of Fine Art - €10 entry fee and enjoy a €2-3 beverage at the cafe after
Articok rooftop; Split waterfront; Museum of Fine Art cafe. Miranda Miller
Fair warning: Split is no hidden gem.
Even in September, when you’d think the summer crowds would start to taper off, it’s still buzzing with tourists. While I love sharing travel experiences with fellow nomads, it’s always a bit of a shock to step into a place that seems to be on everyone’s radar.
Tour groups follow their guides like ducklings, cruise ship passengers flood the old town, and you’ll hear English spoken almost as much as Croatian.
But hey, there’s a reason people flock here – it’s just that beautiful. The charm of Split lies in its energy, a blend of old-world history and modern-day vibrancy that keeps you on your toes.
This is a place I highly recommend going carry-on only, as it’s no fun dragging a full-sized suitcase through a maze of cobblestone streets packed with tourists. I packed for 4 weeks in a single hard shell carry-on suitcase and 45L backpack with traveling cubes. You can do it!
The airport is about a half-hour drive from Old Town Split, and you have several convenient options:
Take a taxi for €40-50. They’re lined up outside the airport exit waiting for passengers.
Use Uber or Bolt, two ride sharing apps that work in this part of the world, and book a ride that way. I have both apps on my phone so I can compare pricing, since it’s dynamic and changes based on demand and driver availability. You can save €20 (€4 off each of your first 5 Uber rides) anywhere in the world by registering your account with my discount code: 77k293wmjtdy.
Take the shuttle bus. This is the way I went, and it was super easy. Buses leave every 30 minutes and the meeting point is well marked. It costs €10 and will leave you at the downtown bus station on the waterfront.
The shuttle bus at the airport, and at the bus station in downtown Split.
Get an eSIM before you arrive so you’re connected to data as soon as you land and throughout your ride. Use code MIRAND7700 when you sign up or at checkout to get USD $3.00 off your first Airalo eSIM.
Where to Stay in Split: Pros and Cons
One of the best things about Split is that it offers a wide range of accommodation options, depending on your budget, preferences, and how close you want to be to the action. There’s no “wrong” place to stay, but each area comes with its own vibe and, of course, a few trade-offs.
1. Staying in the Heart of the Old Town (Diocletian’s Palace Area)
If you want the full-on immersive Split experience, staying right within the ancient walls of Diocletian’s Palace is as close as it gets to living history. You’re literally sleeping in a UNESCO World Heritage site, surrounded by Roman architecture, cobblestone streets, and the constant hum of the old town.
Pros:
Unbeatable location: You’re just steps from iconic landmarks, like the Peristyle, the cathedral, and the Riva waterfront promenade.
Walkability: No taxis or Ubers needed – everything is right at your doorstep, from the local market to the best restaurants and cafés.
Atmosphere: Staying here means you’re constantly surrounded by history. The ambiance is something special, especially at night when the streets quiet down.
Cons:
Pricey: This area tends to be more expensive than staying just outside the city center. You’re paying for the location and that historical vibe.
Tourist traffic: Diocletian’s Palace is the biggest draw in Split, so be prepared for crowds, especially during the day. It can get noisy.
No cars: The streets are too narrow for cars, so if you’ve got heavy luggage or mobility concerns, getting in and out can be a bit tricky.
2. Residential Neighborhoods (12-15 Minute Walk from the Waterfront)
Our second Airbnb in Split
This is where we stayed. A bit removed from the hustle and bustle, but still close enough to the waterfront and old town to pop down for dinner or sightseeing whenever the mood struck.
Pros:
More affordable: You’ll generally get more for your money here – bigger apartments, more modern amenities, and quieter surroundings, all for a lower price.
Local experience: Staying in a residential neighborhood gives you a peek into what life is like for locals. You’re not just a visitor; you’re living among the Split residents, going to the same bakeries, and navigating everyday life in the city.
Quieter: You’ll appreciate the relative calm after a day in the bustling old town. It’s nice to retreat to a quiet neighborhood after hours of exploring.
Cons:
The uphill walk: One thing to note – Split slopes upward the further you get from the city center. So, while it’s an easy 12-minute walk down to the Riva, the walk back can be a bit of a workout. If you’re in good shape, it’s no problem, but those with mobility issues might find it tiring.
Distance from the action: Even though it’s only a 12-minute walk, you’re not in the heart of things. You’ll need to plan your days more carefully, as you won’t have the luxury of ducking back to your room for a quick rest between sightseeing.
That said, rideshare apps like Bolt and Uber are a lifesaver here. A ride down to the waterfront costs about 8 euros, so if you’re not feeling up to the walk or just want to save time, it’s an easy option.
3. Stay by the Beach (Bacvice and Firule Areas)
Image: Google Maps
If lounging by the sea is more your style, staying near Bacvice Beach or Firule Beach might be your speed. These areas are slightly removed from the old town but offer beautiful coastal views, more relaxed vibes, and easy access to the Adriatic.
Pros:
Beachfront living: You’re a stone’s throw from the sea, which makes morning swims or sunset strolls incredibly easy.
Less touristy: While Bacvice Beach can get busy (it’s the most popular beach in Split), the neighborhoods here feel more laid-back compared to the city center.
Good for families: These areas have more spacious accommodations, making them ideal if you’re traveling with a group or just want a bit more room to spread out.
Cons:
Further from the old town: It’s about a 20-minute walk to the heart of the city. Not a deal-breaker, but it does mean more time in transit if you want to explore Split’s historical sites regularly.
Busy beaches: Bacvice, in particular, can get packed, especially in the summer. If you're hoping for a quieter beach experience, this may not be the place for you.
4. Split’s Hillside Villas
For those looking to splurge or simply enjoy a more luxurious experience, Split’s hills offer stunning villas with panoramic views of the sea and the old town. Think infinity pools, spacious terraces, and the kind of serene, upscale living that’s perfect for a relaxing retreat.
Pros:
Luxury and privacy: These villas tend to offer more space, privacy, and higher-end amenities. You can truly kick back and relax in style.
Views: You’re not going to beat the views from up here. Watching the sun set over Split and the Adriatic is a pinch-me-I’m-dreaming kind of experience.
Cons:
Distance: These hillside spots can be a bit further removed from the old town – you’re looking at a drive or a long walk to get to the center of things.
Price: As expected, you’re paying a premium for the luxury and the views.
Ultimately, where you stay in Split depends on what kind of experience you’re looking for. If you want to be in the thick of the historical charm, go for a spot in or near Diocletian’s Palace. If you prefer a quieter, more local experience, the residential neighborhoods just outside the center offer a great blend of affordability and convenience – uphill walks and all.
And for the beach bums or those ready to splurge, Split’s coast and hills have something special waiting for you.
Split is a city that invites exploration, whether you’re a history buff, an adventure seeker, or simply someone who enjoys sipping coffee at a café while people-watching.
One of the reasons it’s such a popular destination is that it offers the best of both worlds: rich history in the Old Town and easy access to the Adriatic’s most stunning natural wonders.
It’s also a major jumping-off point for cruises, meaning the harbour is always buzzing with activity. So whether you’re here for a day, a week, or longer, there’s no shortage of things to do!
1. Tour Diocletian’s Palace
If there’s one thing you absolutely can’t miss in Split, it’s touring Diocletian’s Palace. This UNESCO World Heritage site is the literal and figurative heart of the city.
Built at the turn of the 4th century AD as the Roman Emperor Diocletian’s retirement residence, the palace is now a bustling labyrinth of narrow streets filled with shops, restaurants, and cafés. It’s a surreal mix of ancient history and modern life, where Roman columns, medieval churches, and modern-day bars coexist within the same walls.
Pro tip: Go early in the morning or later in the evening if you want to avoid the biggest crowds. The area can get packed, especially with cruise ship passengers who flood the city during peak hours. While you can certainly wander around on your own, I recommend taking a guided tour to really appreciate the rich history hidden in every corner.
2. Boat Trips and Day Cruises
One of the best parts about Split is how easy it is to get out on the water and explore Croatia’s stunning coastline. There are tons of half-day and full-day boat trips departing from the harbor, catering to all types of travelers. Whether you’re into island-hopping, snorkeling, or just relaxing on the deck with a cocktail in hand, there’s a boat tour for you.
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Popular trips include visits to the Blue Cave, where sunlight creates a magical blue glow inside the cave’s walls, and Hvar Island, known for its beautiful beaches, historic old town, and vibrant nightlife. For nature lovers, a day trip to the Krka Waterfalls is a must – you can swim in the crystal-clear pools and take in the stunning cascades. Another option is the Cetina River Canyon, where you can enjoy zip-lining, rafting, or just admiring the scenery.
These adventures are perfect for travelers looking to escape the city for a bit, and the great thing is, you can be back in Split by evening for a leisurely dinner by the water.
3. Glow Stand-Up Paddleboarding (SUP), Kayaking, and Sunset Tours
For something a bit more active, Split offers some super fun, slightly quirky outdoor activities. SUP Glow is an after-dark stand-up paddleboarding experience where your board is lit from below with LED lights, turning the water into an illuminated playground. You paddle out in a group, and the city’s lights reflecting off the water make for a magical evening.
If you’re more into daytime adventures, kayaking is another great way to see Split from a different angle. You can book guided kayak tours that take you along the coastline, with stops for swimming and cliff jumping (if you’re feeling brave!). Or, if you prefer a more relaxed vibe, consider booking a sunset cruise.
There’s nothing quite like watching the sun dip below the horizon while sipping on local wine and soaking in the view of the Adriatic Sea.
4. Wander the Old Town
While boat trips and adventure activities are a blast, one of my favorite things to do in Split is simply wander. The Old Town is full of charming surprises, from tucked-away courtyards to ancient stone staircases that lead to tiny, family-run restaurants or hidden art galleries.
Grab a local beer at a pub; walk the promenade; enjoy a gelato.
It’s a feast for the senses – the smell of fresh-baked bread from a local bakery, the sound of musicians playing on street corners, the sight of Roman ruins integrated seamlessly into the daily rhythm of life.
You can spend hours just strolling through the maze-like streets, drinking in the European history and café culture.
The Riva promenade along the waterfront is another prime spot for people-watching. Grab a seat at one of the outdoor cafés, order a strong Croatian coffee (or maybe a glass of wine), and just soak up the atmosphere.
Remote Work Life
A note about the cafes here… they don’t seem friendly for remote working. Most places I visited don’t want you taking up a table at all unless you’re ordering food, and have high-top seats for those who just want a quick drink.
It didn’t really jive with my expectations based on the Dalamation philosophy of “pomalo,” which essentially means a combination of relaxation, slowness, and a life without problems. Croatians are know for spending hours at coffee. It seems frowned upon to combine that with a laptop, though, and I didn’t see remote workers anywhere.
No matter – we had a workspace in the Airbnb so I kept the work at home there.
Internet here is good and I had no issues. If lightning-fast speed is a requirement of yours, ask your host or hotel for evidence of a speed test before booking.
Speed test at our Airbnb in Split, Croatia. September 2024.
As always, make sure you’re using a VPN if you’re on public wifi networks.
More Midlife Nomad Tips for the Ultimate Split Trip
From managing Split’s ancient cobblestone streets to savoring the slower side of travel, here are a few tips tailored for midlife travelers.
Don’t forget your energy converter.
If you’re coming from North America, you’ll need a power adapter and energy converter for your electronics in Split. Croatia uses type C and F plugs with a standard European voltage of 230V and a frequency of 50Hz.
Most modern devices like smartphones, laptops, and cameras are dual voltage, so they’ll just need an adapter to fit the Croatian outlets. However, if you’re traveling with something like a hairdryer or electric shaver that isn’t dual voltage, you’ll need an actual voltage converter to avoid frying your device.
Pro tip: Check the label on your charger – if it says 100-240V and 50/60Hz, you're good to go with just the adapter. Otherwise, invest in a voltage converter to keep your gadgets safe!
There are deals to be had on meals.
We used the Wolt app to order groceries for delivery and cooked many meals “at home” in the Airbnb to avoid restaurant prices for every meal. We also spotted pizza slices for €1.70, Komiška pogača (traditional fish pie) for €7.50 at Misto Street Food, and €5.50 burgers at 4Burgers.
Choose accommodations wisely.
While Split has a range of accommodations, it’s important to consider factors like location, comfort, and accessibility:
Stay a bit outside the Old Town if you want peace and quiet. The areas just beyond the center, like the residential neighborhoods about a 10-15 minute walk from the waterfront, tend to be more affordable, quieter, and offer a more local feel. Plus, they’re often equipped with more modern amenities – think larger beds, air conditioning, and elevators.
Look for accommodations with minimal stairs or elevators if mobility is a concern. A lot of the old buildings in Split don’t have elevators, and climbing several flights of stairs after a long day of sightseeing can be tough. Always check accessibility before booking.
Take it slow on the cobblestones.
The Old Town’s narrow streets and charming alleyways are paved with centuries-old cobblestones, which, while beautiful, can be tough on the feet and knees. Wearing comfortable, supportive shoes is a must – leave the flip-flops or fancy footwear for the beach or evening dinner spots.
If you have mobility issues or are prone to back or joint pain, plan for breaks. The city center is compact, but wandering through the Old Town can feel like a workout with its uneven streets and stairs. Take advantage of Split’s many cafés to stop, rest, and people-watch when you need to recharge.
You might also choose to bring a walking stick or cane for extra support. I have this collapsible travel cane tucked away in my bag in case my knees act up on the trip.
Plan for the heat.
Croatia can get seriously hot in the summer, with temperatures often reaching the high 80s or 90s (Fahrenheit). If you’re visiting in peak season, plan your days around the heat. Start early to enjoy the city before the midday sun hits. Spend afternoons either at a shady café, your air-conditioned accommodation, or better yet, at one of Split’s many beaches.
Sun protection is key. Bring along a wide-brimmed hat, sunglasses, and sunscreen. Split’s outdoor attractions (like Diocletian’s Palace) are a feast for the eyes, but there’s little shade, so you’ll want to be prepared. Keep a reusable water bottle with you and hydrate regularly, especially if you’re walking a lot or spending time outdoors. I like this collapsible water bottle, as it tucks away small in your luggage when not in use.
Don’t try to cram too much into one day. Pace yourself so you can fully enjoy each experience without feeling rushed. Part of the joy of travel, whether you vacation or nomad, is the freedom to slow down and take things as they come.
Opt for smaller group tours or private guides.
If you’re like me, you aren’t big fans of huge tour groups that rush you from place to place without a chance to soak in the experience. Fortunately, Split has plenty of small group tours or even private guides for a more personalized and relaxed pace.
Whether you’re touring Diocletian’s Palace or heading out on a boat trip to nearby islands, smaller tours often mean a better chance to ask questions, take your time, and even tailor the itinerary to your interests. I’m a big fan of Viator and typically book 1-2 tours through them in any destination.
Give yourself rest days.
As tempting as it may be to fill your itinerary with boat trips, hiking, and tours, one of the best ways to enjoy Split is to leave time to simply wander or relax.
Split’s café culture is ideal for slow mornings or afternoons. Pick a spot along the Riva promenade or in the Old Town, order a coffee or glass of wine, and just take in the scenery. It’s a great way to recharge after more active days.
Don’t be afraid to take a mid-afternoon break – siestas are common here, and businesses often close for a couple of hours in the afternoon. Head back to your hotel or Airbnb for some downtime, and then venture out again when the evening cools down.
Finding pharmacies
Hopefully, you’ve packed everything you need. But just in case, Croatia has modern pharmacies (“ljekarna”), which are easy to find. Many staff members speak English, so if you need anything from over-the-counter pain relief to a bandage, help is close at hand. It’s also reassuring to know that Split has well-rated healthcare facilities, should any more significant medical needs arise.
That’s It For Me!
Me, kissing Gregory of Nin’s big toe (not really) for good luck. Photo by Mary March
I fell in love with Split – its history, vibrant café culture, and easy access to incredible natural wonders. Whether you’re drawn to the ancient charm of the Old Town, crave some seaside bliss, or are itching to explore the nearby islands and waterfalls, Split is a city that delivers.
I hope these tips and stories help you plan your trip, and if you’ve already been to Split or have some insider tips, I’d love to hear from you! Feel free to reach out and share your own experiences or advice.
After all, the best part of being a midlife nomad is the connections we make along the way. Happy trails!
