Cozumel for the Weekend: Sun, Snorkelling & Exploring San Gervasio
Cozumel isn’t cheap, and the cruise crowds are real, but the snorkelling and wild side of the island are out of this world. Rent a buggy, drive the coast, and unwind.
¡Hola from Mexico! We’re just back from a weekend trip over to Cozumel from Playa del Carmen. It was a much-needed break, and a good excuse to move my body in ways that don’t involve dodging black ice.
It’s under an hour for the ferry ride from dock to dock, and you’ve got a couple of options.
We usually go with Ultramar — it’s a bit faster, and the first-class section has air conditioning, cushy seats, and a few tables if you get there early. Round-trip tickets for two came to $90 USD, and we were on island time by midday Friday.
We snorkeled. We wandered the port town of San Miguel, and the wilder side of the island. I’m working on getting my step count up (and my blood pressure down), and Mexico delivers the walkable, snow-free lifestyle I need in winter.
The snorkeling and diving here are incredible… it’s what draws many of the non-cruise ship folks to the island. In one afternoon out, we swam with a nurse shark and countless colourful fish friends. We saw starfish, sting rays, pufferfish and more.
The following day, we rented a little buggy ($100 USD all-in with gas and insurance) and drove the island, exploring empty beaches, eating fresh-caught fish for lunch, and checking out the El Cedral and San Gervasio ruins.
You can rent scooters, too… a friend and I drove the ring road a few years back on scooters, but Trevor isn’t a fan. Something about road rash, safety, yadda yadda.
If it were 5 degrees warmer, I may have been cursing the buggy and opting for an air-conditioned closed-top Jeep, but for this trip, the buggy was a lot of fun and just what we needed. HTL Rentals offers all three options and is located near the main square.
We headed south out of town, to circle the Carretera Costera Sur loop road that circles the southern tip and runs up the west coast back to San Miguel.
About 25 minutes in, having made it well out of town, we decided to stop for a cold pop (soda) at Iguanas Restaurant and Bar. It’s a really nice place in the middle of nowhere, and the owner was just opening up for the day when we arrived. (His family owns the other Iguanas you may encounter en route, too.)
I highly recommend using the washrooms here and having a snack or beverage before you head to the more remote beaches. Just up the road from Iguanas, on the left, you’ll see the turnoff for El Cedral.
This is believed to be the oldest Mayan settlement on the island. Don’t expect anything on the scale of Coba or Chichén Itzá; what you’ll find here is a small monument estimated to have been built in 800 AD, surrounded by a charming village that’s worth taking a walk and exploring (maybe popping into one of the local spots for a cold beverage).
You could safely budget an hour or less for the El Cedral part of your road trip.
You’ll pay an entry fee at a toll booth a few kilometres before the village itself, which gives you access to the Hidalgo park. We paid 60 pesos (30 each). At the ruins, there may be another small fee to access the site (others have reported this online), but we were not charged and didn’t pass any ticketed entry points.
You may also have locals directing you to park in specific places and charging you for it. The ones we encountered own the shops across from the site. It’s up to you how you handle these requests… generally, it’s a small fee and when we’re asked to pay people to “watch the car” while you park on the street in Latin American cities, we just do it.
From there, we got back on Carretera Costera Sur and hit the beaches. There are resorts, beach clubs, and seaside restaurants all along here, so don’t worry about getting so remote that you won’t have options for lunch.
We eventually stopped at Restaurant Bar El Mirador and had the catch of the day: a delicious garlic-drenched, grilled red snapper served whole with steamed vegetables.
There are plenty of places to wander here, and a bike path runs adjacent to the road along the south coast. Go for a swim, if you don’t mind being a bit salty the rest of your trip. I opted out while Trevor went for a dip, and had a nap in the buggy, instead. Also highly recommend.
You could easily spend the entire day wandering this area, but if you plan to see San Gervasio, you’ll need to get there by 3 p.m. as it closes at 4 p.m.
This historic site is off the island’s centre road — the Carretera Transversal, which cuts east-west from San Miguel straight to the east beaches on the Caribbean side (and back again, as was the case for us).
San Gervasio is worth a longer wander and you’ll pay two separate entry fees to get in. One goes to the National Institute of Anthropology and History (INAH) and the other to the local Fundación de Parques y Museos de Cozumel (FPMC). It came to about $15 USD each.
One of the things I love most about this site — beyond the rich Mayan history — was the iguanas. They were everywhere! I got the quick video clip above of a big one that snuck up and scared the bejeezus out of me on the path, and you could hear the trees around the ruins rustling with iguanas making their way here and there.
There are tour guides available to hire at the entrance if you’d like to learn more about the history of the place. I would recommend using one here, as the interpretive panels give just the basics and are getting pretty weathered.
Tip: drive carefully heading into both of those historic sites… the potholes once you get off the main highway in Cozumel are no joke.
Back in San Miguel, we stayed at Hotel Casa Mexicana, a comfortable place under $200 USD/night on the waterfront, with a fresh-cooked breakfast included and an open-air feel.
There are plenty of all-inclusives around the island if that’s your thing, but we liked wandering the main town and choosing our own spots to eat.
It was a quick, easy reset. Just what we needed to recharge before we both go hurtling back into full-time mode for January.
If you're thinking about a winter escape, Cozumel's an easy hop over from the Yucatan/Mayan Riviera. But plan to explore beyond the port area chaos, and don't expect bargain prices once you're there.
Midlife Nomad Tips for Enjoying Cozumel:
Skip the far side of the island when you need to stay connected. Once you’re past the eastern beaches, don’t count on mobile signal or reliable Wi-Fi. Great for unplugging, not so much for Zoom calls.
Cafés and coworking options are limited. While the main town has a few places to work from, the noise (hello, cruise ship day traffic and loud music) can be overwhelming. Bring noise-canceling headphones or plan deep work for early mornings.
Download offline maps before you go. Between patchy service and confusing side roads, it’s easier to explore with a map that doesn’t disappear when your signal does.
Take a couple of plastic bags. One for your wet swimsuit and towel and another for any garbage you may produce. Pack it in, pack it out and leave no trace.
Book a hotel with solid Wi-Fi if you plan to work. Always double-check recent reviews… connectivity can vary wildly between stays. We had almost no Wi-Fi in our room (it was okay in the lobby) and I would have been disappointed if I’d planned on getting any real work done.
Be prepared for the cruise crowd, and everything that comes with it. This isn’t your authentic, sleepy Mexican town. It’s very Americanized and when cruise ships come in, it’s absolutely manic with the street vendors shouting, tourists doing the zombie walk, and buggies, scooters, and Jeeps jockeying for position to get out of town. The real magic of Cozumel happens offshore, exploring the gorgeous reefs, and on the wild side of the island.
Until next time, may your sunscreen be strong and your seatmates stay silent.
✌🏻 Miranda
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The buggy rental tip is gold. I tried doing the Cozumel loop on a scooter once and thoguht I was saving money until hitting those random potholes near San Gervasio. The part about WiFi being sketchy in hotel rooms tracks too, I've learned the hardway to always test it first thing when checking in rather than assuming itll work when needing it for calls.